Wednesday, November 19, 2008

Cheap Scotch and Cheap Stories



So I am guilty and embarrassed. So embarrassed in fact that I considered taking down what I have written and just starting over. But sitting on my porch over a mug of cheap scotch and a PB&J, I realized I couldn’t do it. You can’t just erase your mistakes and start over. The fun comes in calling your own bluff and working through the mess you’ve made.

Every morning I wake up around 6 to the diabolical rap of a rooster who apparently doesn’t share my affinity for daylight savings. With squinty eyes and a face full of sun I heat a cup of coffee and cook up a pan of jumbo Haitian eggs. As I eat the eggs my mood lightens. This is my revenge. I smile as I chew, wondering if I am eating one of the rooster’s nephews.

I usually snag a ride down the hill to Fonkoze’s Central Office with the CFO who lives nearby. I walk around the first floor and say bon jour to everyone. Then I head out onto the street to buy my morning Tampico from Tisant, an older gentleman who sells coke and juice out of a cooler on a corner. I hand him a 20, as he looks for my 3 goud in change he tells me that my Kreyol is improving, still one of the only phrases I understand which makes me think he is just being nice.

When I sit down at my computer I check BBC, CNN and the International Herald. Today I read that the Somali Pirates are at it again, a woman is on trial for bullying a 13 year old MySpace user to suicide and Al-Queda is proudly exercising its first amendment rights. I hate the news.

Looking back over my previous posts I am ashamed. I hate reading my own blog for the same reasons I hate reading the news. It is negative, overly sensational and only tells half the story. Just like MySpace, Somalia (maybe Al-Queda is a bad example) there are two sides to every story.

Haiti is a country so beautiful it can give you Goosebumps at 95 degrees, and yet Haiti has a terrible trash problem. The people of Haiti are some of the kindest I have ever met, and yet Haiti has one of the worst human rights records in history. The International community has reached out to help Haiti’s poor, and yet the health budget for the 9,000 UN MINUSTAH soldiers is still greater than the national health budget for a country of 10 million. Some of the world’s best doctors come to Haiti free of charge, yet millions still die from preventable disease.

Haiti is a country ripe with diversity and full of disparity. From this point forward, I am diametrically opposed to showing just one side. Haitians hate the international news, and for good reason. When people come to write stories and take photos in Haiti they only look for sickness, sadness and suffering. Recently a Haitian man asked me, "Why does everyone hate us...why does everyone want to make us look so bad?"

From now on, I want my friends to frown. Not because they are supposed to, but because they are angry. I want my friends to smile. Not because they have to, but because they are proud. Most importantly, I want my friends to cry. Not because they are sad, but because they know change.

I am done with the cheap stories. But for now, I am sticking with the scotch.

Monday, November 3, 2008

A Complicated 8 Letter Problem

I too sing Haiti.
I am the darker brother.
They send me to eat in the kitchen
When company comes,
But I laugh,
And eat well,
And grow strong.
Tomorrow,
I'll be at the table
When company comes.
Nobody will dare say to me,
"Eat in the kitchen," then.
Besides,
They'll see how beautiful I am
And be ashamed -
I too am Haiti.

-Langston Hughes

Slavery. A word I grew up believing was forever resigned to the past tense.

No, this isn't about Gloabilzation, Neo Liberalism or Imperialism. Nor is it about the World Bank, the CIA or any Structural Adjustment Program or corporate scheme.

It is about slavery. In its most livid, most monstrous form.

It is about the children who can not look you in the eyes.

Restaveks are the child slaves of Haiti. They are stolen from the countryside and sold to families in Port-au-Prince. In addition to manual and domestic labor, children as young as 6 are often beaten, abused, raped and sexually molested.

Modern day slavery was something that I was unaware of before coming to Haiti. Now, there is rarely a day I walk to work without passing a Restavek. It has been a striking awakening for me to realize that for some, the world really is as bad as it is often made out to be.

The subject just seems to freeze my conscience.

I recommend A Crime so Monstrous, by E. Benjamin Skinner. It is a life changing book.

Sunday, November 2, 2008

A Simple 3 Letter Solution


The city of Gonaives was hit hardest by the recent hurricanes that passed through Haiti just months ago. The disaster made news around the world when Aid Organizations were unable to reach the city. As a result many people died due to starvation and lack of medical attention.

Walking around town one can't help but be shaken by the ubiquitous pandemic of frustration, exhaustion and sadness that has swept throughout the city. People are living in makeshift tarp tents atop collapsed homes and standing in mile long lines to receive food from the UN dispensary program. The people of Gonaives truly lost everything, which sadly wasn't even much to begin with.

One evening I sat on the roof of where I was staying. As I watched a family dig a mattress out of the mud, I began thinking to myself:

What would I do if I lived here? In a lapse of pragmatism, I came to the conclusion that I would try to make something out of nothing. But the more I thought, the more I realized just how hard it is to do that, especially given the current degree of nothingness. Where would I start?

Cook the aid food and sell it on the street? That wouldn't work. No kitchen. No spices. No pots. Besides, I am too hungry. Rob the food dispensary? No, thats horrible. Forgive me Lord. Besides, its guarded by a dozen UN soldiers with really big guns. Sell something? No, I don't have anything to sell. No one has any money to spend. Learn to breakdance and perform in the street? No, I can't breakdance.

I paused for a moment, In between dreams of headspins and backflips I suddenly realized the obvious solution. It was right there all along.

Start Digging.